Repair Moisturizer

Professional Review

MDSUN Repair Moisturizer is an awesome new moisturizer from MDSUN (the brand I like to affectionately call “Skinceuticals on steroids.”) MDSUN Repair Moisturizer has some excellent ingredients, including high concentrations of vitamin C, alpha lipoic acid, and DNA Repair enzymes. It’s a new favorite moisturizer for anyone with sunspots, mottled or rough skin, and fine lines or wrinkles. For more, read on!

Vitamin C

As FutureDerm readers know, vitamin C is one of my all-time favorite ingredients.

According to a study in the British Journal of Dermatology, topical application of vitamin C has been shown to prevent UVA-mediated phototoxic reactions in porcine [pig] skin, as well as to supplement depleted vitamin C levels after UVA exposure. According to the Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology, UVA-induced damage includes the release of oxidative species, resulting in immunosuppression, photodermatoses, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis.

In addition, according to the study in the British Journal of Dermatology, topical application of vitamin C also protected skin from UVB-induced damage, as measured by erythema and sunburn. According to the Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology, UVB-mediated damage includes activation of MAPK and NF-κB pathways that can result in erythema, hyperplasia, hyperpigmentation, immunosuppression, photoaging and skin cancer.

Aderoxine (Pyridoxine HCL)

Aderoxine (or Pyridoxine HCL)  is a form of vitamin B6. It is a conditioning agent that also may help with inflammation. Research shows that pyridoxine has antibacterial and antioxidant properties which will help to refresh and repair damaged skin. MDSUN’s Repair Moisturizer contains 15%.

Endonuclease V

Endonuclease V is a repair enzyme found in E. coli. A 2008 study found that this enzyme was able to repair UV-damaged DNA and had other beneficial effects on UV-damaged cells. In clinical trials, topical application of reduced the incidence of basal cell carcinomas by 30% and of actinic keratoses by > 68%. Adverse effects were minimal, and there was no evidence of allergic or irritant contact dermatitis.

Alpha lipoic acid

Alpha lipoic acid is a potent antioxidant that has been shown to have effects on fine lines, wrinkles, and skin roughness. A 5% lipoic acid cream tested on 33 women (average age: 54.4 years) for 12 weeks found that their fine lines were reduced, and their skin smoothness was significantly increased (British Journal of Dermatology).

DNA Repair Enzymes

Within each of your trillion cells, there is DNA. As you go through your day to day activities, normal metabolic activities and environmental factors (like UV light, pollution, etc.) cause damage your DNA. You can get as many as 1 million bits of damage per cell per day (source).

Luckily, your cells naturally have DNA repair enzymes, which rush in to the scene. These DNA repair enzymes are of different kinds: Some enzymes are federal, and are called in for investigation (and repair) of breaks that cut clear through DNA, i.e., double-strand DNA breaks. Some enzymes are like police, and called in for local assaults.

Photolyase is one of these local assault DNA enzymes. When included in a skin care product, photolyase has been shown to reduce UVB radiation-induced DNA damage markers by 45% and to increase UV protection by 300% (NEOVA).

According to Dr. Daniel Yarosh, author of The New Science of Perfect Skin, photolyase is delivered to the skin within an hour of application.  It requires light for its activation, though any mild indoor light that passes through sunscreen should be enough for it to work properly.

For those of you who are curious, photolyase used in skin care is derived from sea plankton, and can be identified on skin care products as plankton extract from Anacystis nidulans.  Its job is to undo DNA damage in cells and prevent cell death caused by UV exposure.

Bottom Line

I used to use a vitamin CE serum and a sunscreen during the day, and a retinoid serum and a moisturizer at night.

But post-pregnancy, I find that I need something in the morning between my serum and sunscreen. An acidic and potent, but non-irritating, moisturizer like this is perfect. My skin has never looked better!